to love darkness 2nd，干货看这篇!专访：解密法式剧院着装文化-乐分享

《时装L’Officiel》杂志8月刊刊登了Guillaume Rude Bernadac对歌剧院女性时尚礼仪的采访。

以下是杂志采访内容,外加未刊登详情独家揭秘哦~

In its August edition, l'Officiel published an interview of Guillaume Rué de Bernadac regarding the etiquette for women's fashion at the opera. Find the whole interview here,plus some unreleased!

巴黎人都是艺术青年。他们有年轻的心和自由的灵魂，更有对于艺术的热忱。巴黎人痴迷看展，可以对一幅经典的画百看不厌；而巴黎女人们听音乐会更有讲究，她们总是妆容精致，优雅落座，不疾不徐。这不过是有一个稀松平常的夜晚，但她们从服饰到妆容，从发型到配饰，似乎全都在诠释着她们是在和金碧辉煌的舞台谈一场门当户对的精神恋爱。

Parisians are artistic. They are never old in their hearts and their spirits are free, most importantly, Parisians’ enthusiasm towards art is beyond compare. In art exhibitions,they could study a single painting hundreds of times without getting bored. And whenever there is a concert, you could find Parisian ladies walk slowly to their seats with all their elegance. Perhaps it’s just an ordinary night, but the ladies are all well dressed from head to foot, presenting the best of themselves to tell the others that they are in love with all the glories

当你步入巴黎的歌剧院或音乐厅，谁是观光客谁是巴黎人便一目了然。歌剧院里的礼仪早已不像几个世纪以前有那么多繁文缛节，如今的巴黎女人也不再随波逐流，但风格变成了传承。你在巴黎的时尚杂志里可能很难找到歌剧院着装指南，因为歌剧院着装礼仪已然形成了一套完整的体系，随时代变革，却不为潮流所动。穿什么去听歌剧，在巴黎女人心中浑然天成，形成了一种无需言传的默契。

As a matter of fact, You could recognize Parisians from tourists the moment you step into an opera house or a concert hall. Etiquette in opera nowadays is not as complicated as it was several centuries ago, and Parisian women do not just follow the trends anymore. Nevertheless, the pursuit of elegance has been passed down. Fashion magazines in Paris might not give you any advice on what to wear for an opera show, for there is already an agreement between ladies.In other words, the dressing code for opera follows a set of established requirements which may change with time but never with trends.

Q：高雅音乐是法式文化重要的一部分，那么音乐之于巴黎人是怎样的存在？

The elegant music was known as an indispensable part of French culture, what is the meaning of music for authentic Parisians?

A：从十八世纪以来,歌剧就是巴黎人生活中必不可少的一部分。直到二十世纪，它仍是精英们必不可少的社交活动: 你可以在剧院会见要客；或是扩大社交圈；也可以商谈生意；甚至可能遇见你未来的丈夫或者妻子以及他们的父母。至今，如果你是巴黎身份地位颇高的人士，你也应该是歌剧院的常客。

The opera had become an essential part of the French culture ever since the 18th century. Until the mid 20th century, it was an unavoidable form of outing ofthe social life for the elites: where you meet important people, where you go if you want to be seen, where you discuss about business, where you could meet your future husband or wife and their parents. And today, if you are some one important in Paris, you would still regularly go to the opera.

Q：当人们参加音乐会的时候，是否有一些特殊的礼仪大家需要特别注意的？

Is there any special etiquette that people need to specifically pay attention to when joining a concert?

A：当然了！去听歌剧的人通常是十分有教养的，他们在社交场合十分注重自己合适的言行。我们当然应该避免接听电话，甚至不要看我们的手机（手机屏幕的光在音乐会厅黑暗的环境里也十分耀眼）。如果你渴了，你可以带一小瓶水在包里，但绝对不能吃东西。一旦音乐开始，我们就不能和邻座讲话，这会让人觉得你听得很无聊，更糟糕的情况是你睡着了！我经常看到有人听歌剧时睡着，这是非常不礼貌的。那么什么时候应该鼓掌呢？在中间插曲的时候（不要太久），当然在音乐会结束的时候也要鼓掌（通常有几分钟），或者仅仅是听完一首非常著名的歌曲鼓掌。例如，你可以在莫扎特“魔笛”中的第二乐章“夜女王”演奏完之后鼓掌。

Yes of course! People attending operas are often very educated and paying particular attention to deliver a proper behaviour in social environment. We should of course avoid to have phone calls, or even to look at our phone (the light of the small screen is too shiny in the darkness of the concert hall).You can bring a small bottle of water in your bag in case you are thirsty, but you definitely have to avoid eating. Once the music starts, we cannot talk to our neighbours; give the impression to get bored or even worse, to fall asleep!Trust me, I regularly see people sleeping, attracting fierce disapproving looks from spectators. And then, when shall you applaud? At the interlude (but not too much), of course at the end of the concert (for a few minutes), and also just after a very famous song. For instance, you would applaud after the 2nd aria sung by the “Queen of the night” in Mozart’s opera “The magic flute”.

Q：当女士准备参加音乐会的时候你会推荐哪种类型的穿衣风格？

What kind of dressing style would you recommend for women when they are preparing to attend a concert?

A：这主要取决于你坐在什么位置。在最靠近舞台的位置，你可以看见女士们穿着华丽的晚礼服和鞋子，戴着珠宝，配有高雅的发型。一些女士会选择隆重的晚会礼服，那么一般是长款晚会礼服（长度超过膝盖）比较合适。如果礼服的长度在膝盖上，肩膀千万不能露出来。你可以搭配一个精致小外套，或者别致的围巾遮一下。我建议你不要买露肩的礼服，即使是长礼服也不要买露肩的，因为歌剧院还是有点冷的。如果你坐的比较高，这些建议依然适用。一些人可能穿着朴素，但看起来也很优雅，比如黑色的套装、黑色的裙子。在巴黎的歌剧院里千万不能穿得很随意！所以，在华丽的舞会礼服和简单的优雅套装之间，选择一款你觉得最舒适的吧！

It clearly depends on where you are sitting. In the stalls, the spot closest to the stage, you would see women wearing glamorous evening dresses and shoes,with jewelleries and sophisticated hairstyle. Some women would dare wearinglarge ball dresses, but a long evening dress (or not shorter than the knees) is very appropriate. If the dress is at the knees, the shoulders must be covered,by an elegant jacket, or a beautiful large scarf for instance. I advise you not to have uncovered shoulders anyway, even with a long evening dress; the opera may be a bit chilly. If you are seated higher in the boxes, these advices are still relevant, you will simply encounter a group of audience wearing more humble clothes, still elegant, like suits, simple black dresses etc… You cannot be casual at an opera in Paris! So, between the glamorous ball dress and the simple elegant suit, just choose the one you are most comfortable with!

Q：巴黎人喜欢配饰，为了增加整体的优雅应该怎样使用配饰呢？

Parisians love accessories, how to use those accessories to add some grace for the overall look?

A：巴黎女人喜欢围巾，厚或薄，小块的或大块的，单色的或有图案的，优雅得围在肩膀上或者围在脖子上。在我看来，这些都让你变得更加优雅，如果配上一个无带手提包就更加完美了。如果你恰好有一个难得用到的漂亮胸针，这绝对是佩戴它的最佳时机。不要忘记喷上香水，克里斯汀·迪奥说过“这是你为礼服加上的最后一个细节”。为了更为优雅，我会建议准备一副精致的手套！绝对使你更为优雅！

Parisian women love scarves, made from thin or thick materials, short or large, plain colour or with patterns, to cover the shoulders or to be elegantly wrapped around the neck. In my opinion it adds an elegant sophistication, and goes well with a clutch bag. If you have a beautiful brooch you rarely use, this is the perfect moment to wear it. Don’t forget a discreet touch of perfume, Christian Dior used to say it’s the last detail to add on a dress. And also, my advice in order to look extremely gracious: elegant and discreet gloves! It gives so much charm to a woman!

Q：如何优雅又适当的称赞朋友的装扮？

How to properly and gracefully compliment a friend about her dressing style?

A：当然是越简单越好。如果你说：“我亲爱的朋友，你今晚看上去容光焕发”这可能会让你的朋友很尴尬，因为你称赞过盛。而如果你想对某个特别的细节表示一下关注，可以直接明了地说：“你今晚围的围巾真漂亮”。但无乱如何，最好不要问她围巾哪里买的，或者问她多少钱买的。

The simplest is the best, make a short statement on the overall look, like “My dear friend, you look particularly radiant tonight”. It would embarrass your friend to listen to you exclaiming too much about her style. If you want to direct attention to a particular detail, you can simply mention it with one sentence: “This is a beautiful scarf you are wearing”. At any case you can't ask where she bought it, or, even worse, how much does it cost.

Q：巴黎女人在挑选出席音乐会的服装颜色时，一般会考虑哪些因素呢？

What are the elements that Parisians will consider when choosing the colour of their clothes for a concert?

A：首先，每个人都知道：一个人的身上不应该超过三种颜色。你最好选择一个主色，另外一个或两个颜色作为辅助色来衬托主色。关于主色，巴黎女人特别偏爱黑色。，因为它可以轻而易举的让你看上去又优雅又苗条。如果你选了另外一种主色，你需要注意了：不要粉色和橘色（通常被认为是孩子气的）；不要绿色或者淡蓝色（通常在室外活动才穿的）；不要黄色（太显眼了），等等。这些颜色可以作为辅助色。巴黎女人会根据自己的肤色、发色或者配饰的颜色去选择她服装的主色：像红色、紫色或者白色都很适合黑发的女士，将她们衬托得优雅美丽。

First there is this well-known rule: you should not display more than 3 colours on you. You better pick one dominant colour, with one or two supplemental colours that will enhance the dominant one. Regarding this dominant colour, Parisian women have particular tastes for the black –which easily makes you look elegant and slimmer. If you pick another dominant colour, you would need to pay attention: no pink or orange (considered as too childish), no green or light blue (for outdoor), no yellow (too visible) etc… These colours can still be the minor colours. A Parisian woman will consider her skin tone, her hair colour or the colour of her accessories to choose the dominant colour for her outfit:colours like red, purple or white go pretty well with dark-haired women.

Q：哪些东西是巴黎女人在参加音乐会时的必备品？

What are the kind of essentials that Parisians will carry with them when they are attending a concert?

A：传统上讲，口红是巴黎女人一定会随身携带的物品。现在，她也会随身携带消毒剂、护手霜来清洁双手。最好带一件外套，以防你坐在离空调很近的地方。如果你坐得离屏幕灯光很近，你甚至可以带上小扇子和保湿喷雾。

The lipstick was traditionally the element a Parisian woman needs to have with her. Today,she will also bring sanitizer to purify her hands, plus a hand cream. You would rather have a jacket in case you are seated close to the air-conditioning or a fan and water mist spray if you are too close from the lights of the scene.

Q：人们总说“巴黎风情”或“巴黎魅力”，你认为这些印象如何从着装中体现出来的？

People always say "Paris

temperament" or "Paris charm", how do you think these are being reflected on clothing and dressing?

A：礼仪中有一点特别的地方是，当你打破常规展现自己的个性时，依然可以保持礼教和优雅。对于我来说，这就是“巴黎式的魅力”。比如，一个总是低调、优雅的女人，某天突然选择穿上了一件又长又亮眼的绿色裙子。大家会认为这种做法很勇敢，但没人会质疑她的品味。巴黎的女人们喜欢去展现她们的独立自主。

One of the codes of etiquette is also to know when you can break the etiquette, by still remaining polite and proper but showing your character with an unconventional detail. In my understanding, this is the “Parisian Charm”.For instance, a woman who is known for being always elegant in the past whowould dare to come with long and shining green dress one night. It would be considered bold, and no-one would question her taste. Parisian women love to show how independent they are!

Q：关于在巴黎去听音乐会的服装礼仪，你还有什么可以和读者分享的小贴士吗？

Regarding of the dressing etiquette of attending aconcert in Paris, do you have any more tips to share with our readers?

A：如果你有机会在美轮美奂的巴黎歌剧院加立叶听一次音乐会，一定要记住我的建议，音乐会结束后，请耐心等待喧闹的人群散去，不要着急。然后在静默中走下那一级级神奇的阶梯，去感叹金碧辉煌的墙壁，大师们传世的绘画作品，去呼吸整座剧院的气息，感受充满魔法般的氛围。而通过学习我们的礼仪课程，你会更加清楚此刻该怎样让自己像王后般步伐优雅!

If you have the chance to attend a concert at the opera Garnier in Paris, the most beautiful one, remember my advice: at the end of the concert, let the crowd leave first,don’t rush. Then, you will have the extraordinary opportunity to go down the amazing stairs in silence, to admire the golden walls, the beautiful master paintings,to breathe this unique ambiance of having a palace for yourself. A magic a thanks to our deportment classes, you would know exactly how to walk like a Queen at this moment!